You are currently browsing the tag archive for the ‘scuba equipment’ tag.
Atomic Aquatics ARC (Anti Reflective Coating) SCUBA Mask & Snorkeling Mask
The strongest and most indestructible two-window mask ever. The Atomic Aquatics SubFrame Mask is so durable, it carries a Lifetime warranty against frame breakage.
What is ARC lens technology?
The strength comes from the internal frame (subframe) molded directly beneath the surface of the silicone rubber skirt (patent pending).
This subframe provides incredible strength and rigidity as well as eliminating the bulky external plastic frame in other masks.
A stainless steel retainer locks the lenses in place and provides added strength to the nose bridge area of the mask. A wide field of view and great fit completes the combination of function, style and durability. (US Patent #7,181,778).
Anti-Reflective Coatings
ARC Lens Technology Elevates UltraClear To A Higher Level. Atomic Aquatics developed ARC (Anti-Reflective Coating) technology to reduce reflected light and actually increase the amount of available light transmitted to a diver’s eyes.
The result is a greatly improved transmission of 98% of available light, compared to a loss of more than 14% of light with standard green "float" glass used on the majority of masks on the market.
Anti-Reflective Coatings or “ARC” is a multi-layer metal oxide coating process applied to both sides of the UltraClear lenses. This allows more light to enter the mask by reducing light reflections off the inside and outside surface of the lens. The metal oxide coating is only a few microns thick.
Between 4-14% of light can be reflected back or “lost” by the standard “green float glass” mask lenses used by our competition.
ARC technology lenses are especially important for SCUBA divers underwater, where available light is quickly absorbed by the surrounding water.
What is the underwater benefit of ARC for divers?
• Clearer, crisper vision. You will see more clearly underwater and objects in the distance will become more defined and acute.
• Increased contrast and clarity.
• Reduces eyestrain, glare, and prevents ghost images on the viewing area of the lens.
• An absolute must for night diving, limited visibility conditions, and underwater photographers.
Consumer Review:
Paul Shanderling gives it 5 stars
I am really pleased with mine, i have had it a couple of years now. This is not a standard mask, it is a precision instrument which does out perform other masks on the market especially on night dives and poorly lit environments. It depends what you demand from your kit. However, the ARC application can make it awkward to defog properly. What is recommended is PSI 500, both from Atomic and from K2 here, once this has been thoroughly cleaned you will not have a problem with it. i would not give it a 2nd thought to buy another one!!!
This puppy retails for $150, give us a call at 818 982 2652 and mention this blog post, or that you are a member of the Tribe K2, and we will give you your extra special, insider schweet dealeo!
or check out Flipilicious today for Mask Monday!
Tevis
| Hi! If you’re new here, you may want to subscribe to our RSS feed. Thanks for visiting! |
Selecting the best scuba diving wetsuits is tantamount to giving yourself that full-geared up confidence to take part in a worthwhile scuba diving experience. Wetsuits offer assorted degrees of thermal protection for the body while underwater with its man-made neoprene material that might be fitted out with spandex fibers to provide further flexibleness. Here are some beneficial subjects to help in your search and purchase for this scuba gear : Finding your Wetsuit Style.
Are available in full-body, 3 quarters, and two-piece styles. The 3 quarters or ‘shorty’ wetsuit is practical to be employed in warm waters while the two-piece wetsuit will fit cold water dives. If you are an occasional, recreational diver, shorties will be a good selection. But if you’d like to make an occupation or job out of diving, getting a full body wetsuit will give you the power to don it in both cold water and warm water dives. Wetsuit Fit : When picking a wetsuit its fit and tailoring for your body shape is critical.
So fit is actually imperative. At K2 Scuba, you can forecast a call and custom fitting you to the suit that it your bag, instead of just taking an order for some stock size and shipping it to you.
When you try a wetsuit on do some stretches and squats to see how it follows the contour of your body. SUITS IN THE 21ST CENTURY are now not UNCOMFORTABLE.
Do not accept the hype a wetsuit is only cushy in the water! If you notice major room especially on your lumbar area, in that arch between the apex of your bum and your shoulder, then you do not have a good fit. Simply, if your wetsuit does not stick closely to your body shape then water will flush in and you will not stay warm.
You have spent a grip of money for a sick fitting suit. There are a number of neck entry systems that different wetsuit brands will offer, the regular back zip and velcro close over or the front zip offered by Xcel Diving Wetsuits or Pinnacle Wetsuits. The public must try on some wetsuits to get one that fits them utterly.
Naturally, there are outlets offering custom-made wetsuits for those with deeper pockets. When cut to your size, the wetsuit guarantees utmost comfort, better insulation and pliability. Evaluate your Diving Wants .
Neoprene is the standard material for wetsuits and are available in thicknesses of 2mm to about 9mm. In most examples, wetsuits carrying a thickness beyond 5mm can get real enormous underwater to put a dent on overall adaptability.
Keeping up the proper Condition of Your Wetsuit. As much as possible, dip your wetsuit in a tub stuffed with an enzyme-based cleaner and hand wash it scrupulously ; particularly duck messing up the backstitching of a wetsuit. Don’t forget to mist it while drying outside but watch out not to bare it to direct daylight. The stench of a wetsuit are the bacteria from your skin hiding in the nooks and crannies of the neoprene. Wash your suit! Similarly , hang the wetsuit in a cool, dry place and away from direct sunlight when storing them..
Thanks for reading, leave your comments below. . . yes, now!
| Hi! If you’re new here, you may want to subscribe to my RSS feed. Thanks for visiting! |
If you have got an interest in getting started in scuba diving, there are countless things to think about.
These things include scuba diving basics and the scuba gear you will have to wear. The neatest thing you can do if you have an interest in exploring the depths of the sea is to take a basic scuba diving class. There are certifications that you can get but if you have an interest in going for an one time journey then it’s best to spend two hours with an expert that may show you everything you have to know.
Permit me to state again, rather than plopping down a bucketload of money in your local dive shop on the package with free lessons, find a caring individual to bop in the pool with you.
Confirm this is something that you will wish to get into and pursue.
Are you aware :
- Of the millions cert’d, only 2% continue to ceaselessly dive.
- The complete rig ( all of the scuba equipment ) you want to be a totally self contained diver runs $3,000-5,000.00
- You don’t desire / nor need all the specializations that PADI or any other certifying organization counsels
- You are most dangerous to yourself and others in dives 5-25
Most resorts and dive shops supply a basic course to get you going in a secure environment with an expert. You can learn some steps and things about safety to guarantee you have got a brilliant time and you know what you do.
Gear is the successive most critical thing when you’re scuba diving.
The 3 most urgent things you need to remain happy and comfortable while you are diving include scuba fins, scuba mask, and exposure protection ( scuba wetsuits ).
Most divers don’t own their tank because they are too giant and enormous to go with. A tank can be gained at a local dive shop. The tank is absolutely full of air and you want this so you can breathe underwater. This suggests that if you would like to go diving for a complete weekend then you’ll need to get some tanks. Steel tanks are much stronger than the aluminum which means you can pressurize them to higher pressures. A steel tank is heavier and rather more dear but it will permit you to have 25% more time under the water.
This is the hose attached to the valve of the tank that pressurizes the air. The low pressure hose is the one that you’ll have in your mouth that you are going to respire from. Ambient pressure comes from the regulator which makes it better to respire. Never stop respiring when you’re rising as it would lead to lung expansion injuries.
The BCD enables you to control your buoyancy. They are attached to the regulator on the low pressure side. These are the classic jacket that you see divers wear when they are diving. Tons of them have integrated weights in them that are removable.
Always consider the amount of weight in the jacket, how well it fits, and the back inflation. Sight is the one sense you need to have underwater for your protection. This implies that the mask you wear must fit perfect. The water must be clear the complete time you are underwater or it might ruin the experience. Try on many masks to discover the one you select fits just right. Fins are another factor that you cannot go diving without.
The explanation is usually because they are used to help swim with this. Fins let you be dexterous under the water. If you aren’t wearing fins then it is kind of very not likely to swim with the fast moving currents of the sea. There are heaps of things you need to consider if you want to start with scuba diving. The gear you use will be your lifeline and you may use gear developed to your wishes and your comfort. Also, before you go for the 1st time take a basic class so you are safe and you know what you do.
Scuba diving is a blast, dive safely and dive long and ping us at K2 Scuba to get you/keep you diving.
Bring your Scuba Gear to a fascinating, exciting holiday town. Cabo San Lucas is a little city on the end of the Baja Promontory in the state of Baja California Sur, Mexico. It is roughly one thousand miles south of San Diego, California, roughly twenty-two miles southwest of the Los Cabos World airfield and eighteen miles west of San Jose del Cabo. Las Cabos is found on the southerly end of Baja California Sur. Between the 2 cities is eighteen miles of resort communities found on the sea edge. It is an active flourishing area. A short history. Herman Cortez set sail to the reported island which was full of gold and pearls and inhabited by Amazons in 1535 with 3 galleons and over six hundred males and females. He at once discovered there wasn’t any gold and pearls nor were there Amazons. It wasn’t till after World War 2 a grouping of Southern Californians discovered that they could fly to La Paz and then go by rutty roads to the shores of Mar de Cortes.
It had been a punctiliously inclined secret that steadily leaked out the sea of Cortes was bounteous with fish and was well-protected. The weather was nearly perfect.
As there were no roads, long yachts and personal aeroplanes kept the pretty sea vistas exclusive. Scuba Diving is provoking with sights of Giant Manta Rays, Hammerhead Sharks, Pilot Whales, and for the daring. . . . Feel your place in the pecking order by diving with Humbolt Squid. It was become the destination of many world travelers.
A favored port-of-call, Cabo San Lucas hosts four hundred cruise ships a year and receives over 1,000,000 yearly visitors. Where firstclass, five star resorts abound, Cabo San Lucas offers family activities and top class comforts. As well as the resorts, for the traveler who favors to hire holiday villas or stay at bed and breakfasts or boutique hostels which hire for the week or month. The active nightlife embodies the Cabo Wabo, a must see, El Squid Roe and the latest Zoo Bar and Dance. Many refectories surround the Mall with specialties from many states.
There’s parasailing, sailboating.
As well as the water pleasures, you can go 4 wheeling into the desert along the sea where there are no homes and no hostels.
The New Oceanic OC1 Dive Computer is an all-in-one dive computer featuring a precision digital compass, dot matrix display, wireless Buddy Pressure Check and so much more. SmartGlo backlighting and audible alarms keep you current when every second counts.
BREAKING NEWS! Oceanic and DiveNav, Inc. announce the availability of theDiving® scuba diving simulator for the soon-to-be-released Oceanic OC1 Dive Computer. The OC1 is an advanced all-in-one dive computer featuring Oceanic’s exclusive Dual Algorithm, wireless air-integration, digital compass, remote Buddy Pressure Check, and so much more. All in a strong, lightweight titanium housing. Scheduled for June 15,2009 delivery.
• Precision Digital Compass including North, reference modes and declination adjustment
• Titanium Housing
• Dot Matrix Display provides superior readability and intuitive user interface
• Digital Watch, Air, Nitrox, Gauge and Free Dive Modes
• Switch between up to 3 independent wireless transmitters, tracking 3 Nitrox mixes or buddy’s tank pressure with Buddy Pressure CheckTM
• Audible Alarms with User Acknowledgment
• SmartGlo® Backlighting
• Includes OceanLog® PC Download and Settings Upload Software and USB cable Sport Divers Magazine
Sport Divers Magazine – Editor’s Pick – March 2009
COOL FACTOR
Enough functionality to make 007’s gadget man, Q, raise an eyebrow in approval.
KEY FEATURES
This do-everything machine includes a digital compass, dot-matrix display and functionality to switch among three wireless transmitters. The latter allows for a buddy pressure-check function. Four dive modes handle air, nitrox, gauge and free-dive duties, and the dot-matrix display is crisp and easy on the eyes. All of this comes wrapped in a strong, lightweight titanium housing. SmartGlo backlighting works great in low-light conditions and at night, and the system includes Oceanic’s software along with a USB cable for integration with a PC.
For the Scuba Diving Equipment Enthusiast, this is the first adopter must have! Do what others have already done and
BUY NOW by clicking Here
THE BEST DRY SNORKEL!" 
Scuba Diving Magazine, December 2005
The name says it all. Designed to be exactly what its name suggests, the ULTRA DRY snorkel incorporates Oceanic’s patented Dry Snorkel Technology into an ultra-low profile product that is ergonomically designed for comfort and function.
This technology creates a seal to virtually eliminate water entering the snorkel barrel, while achieving superior air flow performance on the surface.
· Patented Dry Snorkel Technology virtually eliminates water entry without sacrificing performance
· Oversized purge valve for easy clearing
· Quick-release swiveling snorkel keeper
· Drop away smooth bore flex mouthpiece
· Replaceable 100% liquid silicone mouthpiece and purge valve
· *NEW* Mini Version features the same fine qualities as the Ultra Dry, but with a mouthpiece designed for smaller adults and youths.
30-DAY SATISFACTION GUARANTEE: We guarantee that at any time during the first 30 days of purchase, your Oceanic scuba gear fails to meet your expectations, that product may be exchanged by K2, a participating Authorized Oceanic Pro Dealer. No questions asked.
30 Years of Gear
Zeagle celebrates 30 years of creating Innovative Dive Products with 30% Discounts!
Dennis G. Bulin, President and Founder of Zeagle Systems, Inc. traveled back and forth many times from his home state of Wisconsin in the 1970s to skydive in sunny Florida. Dennis settled in Zephyrhills, Florida and started Zeagle Systems in 1979 as a one-man operation, building parachute equipment and accessories. His interests shifted from skydiving to SCUBA when he became an active diver. Dennis combined the company’s technological expertise in manufacturing skydiving equipment with the knowledge of technical and sport diving techniques to design personal buoyancy control devices and other products for SCUBA diving. The success of Zeagle’s innovative approach to buoyancy compensator design led the way for Zeagle to become a respected worldwide supplier and manufacturer of diving equipment.
Zeagle is celebrating its 30th birthday with a present for our consumers, new and old.
Zeagle is kicking off our 30th year of manufacturing by offering discounts all Spring. Please visit K2, your Zeagle dealer for this spendiferous deal!
Hurry, discount program ends June 21st.
Loyalty Rewards!
Purchase (or have purchased in the past) a Zeagle Regulator, BC, computer or drysuit and qualify for a 30% discount on your next Zeagle purchase
Upgrade your old gear!
Trade-in ANY BC or Regulator for 30% off any Zeagle BC or Regulator
Referral program!
Bring in a new student and receive a 30% discount on your next Zeagle item purchased
Download a copy of the Z30 promotional poster here
Check out some of Zeagle’s newest products!
Limited time offer, Contact your Zeagle dealer for Z30 discount coupon. Discounts off MSRP, offer
excludes Scout BC, Escape BC, N2iTioN PC Download Kit, and any close out items. Offer ends June 21, 2009.
If what you read here is even .01% meaningful to you, please Digg us, Stumble us, or save us to Del.icio.us using the icons following each post. Be sure to subscribe to this blog’s RSS Feed and our newsletter too, if so inclined, deposit your email address by using the form to the right or click here! Thanks for visiting and dive safe out there, will you?
Even in the tropics, divers have to guard against thermal loss, but for divers who blow bubbles in chilly, temperate conditions–water ranging from the low 50s to the low 70s–staying warm is imperative. When the water’s this cold, it doesn’t take much to get uncomfortably chilled and stay that way. Good news: Today’s 7mm wetsuits offer better fit, features, comfort and thermal protection than ever before. Let’s review how a wetsuit really works.
Wetsuit Basics
Wetsuits are made with neoprene rubber, a closed-cell foam that traps millions of tiny gas bubbles. These bubbles in the neoprene act as insulation, and this, combined with a snug, sealed fit that minimizes the amount of cold water that enters the suit, is what keeps your body heat from escaping. In order for a wetsuit to keep you warm, it should: 1) be 
thick enough for the temperature of the water you’re diving in, 2) have seams, seals and zippers that minimize water intrusion, and most important, 3) fit like a second skin.
Materials
A layer of material, usually nylon, lines each side of a wetsuit’s neoprene rubber. The purpose of the outer layer is to provide some protection for the neoprene, while the inner layer, or lining, is more for comfort. Some suits use no inner lining, and instead have a smooth-skin interior. This offers more warmth because the whole suit seals against your skin, minimizing or even eliminating water flow, a key feature of an effective wetsuit. The downside: wetsuits with smooth-skin interiors, with some notable exceptions, are more difficult to put on and take off, and the inside of the suit is more prone to damage. The trend in recent years, especially in 7mm suits, is toward more stretchy neoprene to increase comfort and flexibility. An Xcel 3mm stretchier suit is easier to put on, is super comfortable and is able to maintain a snug fit by conforming to your body. The downside: stretchier neoprene compresses more at depth than denser, stiffer, standard-stretch neoprene, reducing its insulation capabilities. Because of this, some wetsuit manufacturers use more traditional compression-resistant neoprene, which is then cut into anatomically shaped panels and sewn together to add flexibility.
Seams
Nearly all seams on 7mm wetsuits are glued and blind-stitched. First, the suit’s neoprene panels are glued with two or three coats of neoprene cement. Next, the seams are sewn together to prevent them from pulling apart. This is done with a blind-stitch, where a needle penetrates only the top layer of the material on either side of the seam, without punching all the way through the neoprene. There are slightly different methods used in creating a durable waterproof seam. One is running a bead of liquid silicone-based urethane over the glued seam on the opposite side of a blind-stitched seam, making one side of the seam look like it’s been "welded" together. This process is more waterproof, since you’re not poking holes in the neoprene on one side, and more durable because the liquid weld bonds to the seam virtually everywhere contact has been made, rather than just at the stitch points. Glued-and-taped is another method, where flexible bonding tape is applied with heat and pressure over the glued seam on both sides, eliminating the need for any stitches at all.
Seals
Some water always seeps into a wetsuit, but the goal is to keep it to a minimum. The most common water entry points, in order of importance, are the neck, wrists and ankles. Some manufacturers put sealing systems on these entry points. Starting with the most effective, they are: A note on neck seals: 7mm suits are designed for temperate to cold water, environments that require not only a thick suit but a hood. Most wetsuit hoods tuck inside the collar, but this generally breaks whatever neck seal the wetsuit has. If you wear a standard wetsuit hood, don’t worry about what kind of neck seal the wetsuit has; instead, tuck in the hood and then adjust the collar as snug as possible to minimize water flow. If the wetsuit has a first-rate neck seal and you don’t want to lose it, consider wearing a dry suit hood. These overlap the collar rather than tuck inside, maintaining the integrity of the seal. Another option: some manufacturers offer wetsuit hoods that have a band of smooth-skin sewn around the neck. Tuck the hood into the collar of the suit so that the smooth-skin band makes contact with the smooth-skin neck seal. They bond together, preserving the seal and keeping you dry, warm and comfortable.
Zippers
Choosing a 7mm suit with a vertical back zipper or one with a horizontal front zipper is a matter of preference. Front-zipper suits tend to be easier to put on, but the zipper track can affect flexibility in the chest and shoulder areas. Back zippers lay in line with the spine and tend to be more comfortable, but you may need help when zipping up. Whether back or front, the zipper creates the greatest potential for water entry. To combat this, most suits have a zipper underflap that lies between a diver’s bare back and a heavy-duty zipper track, which helps block water flow (and adds cushioned comfort). Some suits use two sections of smooth-skin neoprene, one on each edge of the zipper track . When the zipper is zipped up, the two sections of smooth-skin seal against each other. Finally, a couple of suits use zippers with overlapping teeth that reduce water seepage, and here and there, you’ll find a 7mm suit with a dry suit-type zipper with its teeth sandwiched between layers of rubber that create a truly watertight seal.
Fit
Of course, none of the above–the seals, the seams, the zippers–matters if the wetsuit doesn’t fit. Gaps in your armpits and spaces between your legs, behind your knees or along your spine fill up and pump water inside your suit, sucking the heat out of you. A properly fitting suit fits your body like a second skin, with no gaps or spaces. Finding a good fit can be difficult: Everyone has a unique shape, and even standard sizes like small, medium and large differ by manufacturer. Some suits tend to be designed for muscular divers, others fit lean divers better. Some manufacturers offer a dizzying array of sizes, others offer only the basics. Bottom line: To get a snug-fitting suit, try on as many as you can. If you can’t find a stock suit that fits, find a manufacturer that offers custom-made suits. The Xcel Thermstretch Bamboo above to the right retails for $429. We one of the few master Xcel dealers that has the spank brand new 2009 Thermostretch Bamboo line of completely green wetsuit fullsuits. Please give us and call and come in to see this amazing technology in wetsuit wear. Xcel hasn’t yet decided to advertise their dive wetsuits on the internet so email us at custsvc@k2scuba.com and we will email you the pics and specs of this new product!
This Post was written by, and seeded from Duane Johnson of Precision Diving On February – 26 – 2009
I recently had a conversation with a potential student about how I teach team diving techniques compared to what is taught in traditional diving classes. It occurred to me that many divers do not know the difference between team diving and buddy diving. They feel that if they stay with their buddy and can air share in an emergency, that is team diving. It is not, team diving is much more than sticking with your buddy and helping out in an emergency.
First, let’s define buddy diving as it is taught in traditional diving classes. When people go through these classes, they are taught to stick with your buddy, do air shares, and some basic buddy rescue skills. While these skills are important, it does not take the place of working as a team. Buddy diving, is simply looking after each other. The buddy is just there. It doesn’t do much for the safety of the team nor the objectives of the dive. One of the biggest areas where buddy diving fails is in the pre-dive planning stage. In traditional PADI diving classes, students are normally taught BWRAF as their pre-dive plan. That is an acronym for: BCD, Weights, Releases, Air, Final OK. There is no discussion as to how they will descend, swim around, communicate, when to thumb the dive and ascend. This is where buddy diving breaks down.
So, what is team diving? Let’s use the analogy of a football team. US football, not soccer that is. In football, the team works together to work their way down the field to score a touchdown. Everyone on the field has a job to do in order to ensure success. If one area of the team fails, then the quarterback gets sacked, the running back fumbles the ball, or the team must punt away the ball. If an offensive lineman does not do his job effectively, then the quarterback or running back can, potentially, get hurt. The same is true for team diving. The team must work together to ensure the safety of all members of the team. Next time you watch a NFL game, watch the offensive linemen. They are always pointing to something, shouting at each other, etc. The quarterback reads the defense and may change the play at the line of scrimmage (i.e. call an audible). This is an excellent demonstration of constant team communication. Each member of the team knows where other teammates are at at all times. Just as in diving, we must be able to effectively communicate to let the team know where we are at, what to look out for, etc. We do this with passive and active light communication.
It all Starts in the Beginning
To ensure team success, the entire team must be on the same page. Not just in knowing what is expected, but in skill and experience level. Inexperienced divers can learn a great deal from experienced divers, but they must learn it at their current experience level before moving on to something more aggressive and out of their level. This is one aspect of diving where people get into trouble. They simply try to do dives, or take classes, that are above what they are really capable of handling. The problem is they don’t know when to put the brakes on their diving and say, I need to get better before moving on. They don’t do a honest assessment of their diving skills. I had to learn this the hard way, see here.
As part of the pre-dive plan, the team must get together and determine how the dive will get done. They must determine what the goal of the dive will be, who will lead, what the gas plan is, etc. For shallow reef dives, this can be very simple and take only a few minutes. For complex decompression dives, it can take days.
The Team that Descends Together, Stays Together
The majority of diving problems occur during the initial descent of the dive. As a team, it is important to stay together during the descent. There are multiple team descent techniques that can be employed, depending on the water conditions. This is where you need to have learned team diving from a good instructor to knows team diving protocols, not reading off the internet.
A good number of diving accidents have occurred when diving alone. Now, that doesn’t only mean solo diving. It includes when buddies lose contact and separate from one another. If the team descends together and gets to the target depth, then the leader can communicate to the team the direction to swim. This helps keep the team together and swimming off in the right direction. In other words, everybody starts the dive together.
Lending a Helping Hand, or Two, or Three
When the proverbial crap hits the fan, I want my team members there to help me out. This shouldn’t be confused with being self-sufficient. If I’m having a problem with a gas leak, my teammates can see my valves where I cannot. They can tell me which one to shut down, or just do it for me if I am dealing with another problem. They are there to provide me gas, if for some reason I need it. In other words, my teammates must be on the same page as me so that we can prevent small issues/problems from becoming larger (i.e. the incident pit). When diving as a team, all resources become team resources. This includes equipment, gas, etc. But it also includes that person’s experience. This is where solo diving courses fail because the diver solely relies on their own, possibly limited, experience. When I’m diving with less experienced divers, I’m able to prevent or foresee potential problems they may have based on my past diving experiences. A diver’s education and experience level is a big resource one can bring to the table in the team environment.
The bottom line is that divers shouldn’t be fooled by instructors/dive stores who are claiming to teach team diving. Nine times out of ten, they are only talking about buddy diving and not team diving. Do your homework and ask the all important question, “How?”. An instructor who truly teaches team diving will be able to teach more than just the “buddy system” and teach how the team can achieve it’s goals, including teams with more than 2 or 3 people.
I welcome your questions or comments.
Dive Safe, Duane Johnson Precision Diving
If what you read here is even .01% meaningful to you, please Digg us, Stumble us, or save us to Del.icio.us using the icons following each post. Be sure to subscribe to this blog’s RSS Feed and our newsletter too, if so inclined, deposit your email address by using the form to the right or click here! Thanks for visiting and dive safe out there, will you?
My Spanish Friends at SubAquaMundo have done the diving community a sincere service taking the equipment maintenance and repair out of the hands of unscrupulous dive shop owners, and empowering the client/customer diver. Changing a battery or servicing a BCD is not rocket science.
You can read this article and more cutting edge articles at ScubaMundo dot com
Here is this schweet article in its entirety:
The Suunto Stinger (from now on referred to solely as stinger) is one of the most common of all dive computers for recreational scuba diving and rightly so, its a full decompression model, works for both Air and Nitrox and whats more it looks good as a watch on the wrist for everyday use. However the only downfall is that once the battery needs changing it cant be done by the “Stinger” owner it has to be sent away due to specialist tooling that is needed. Now due to a company called Smartinterface from Germany that problem is now over, Smartinterface have tooled a key that fits the “Stinger” perfectly so that you can now change the battery yourself in minutes rather than waiting upto 3 months as is the case here in Spain. I have changed the batteries in loads of “Stingers” since i bought this tool and now im going to show you just how easy it is by taking you through another battery change.
What you need
You will need a flat clean work surface, the “Stinger” key from Smartinterface as well as a new O-ring and battery (again Smartinterface) and a mount to put the stinger in whilst unscrewing the front (the Key, O-ring, Battery and mount all come supplied from Smartinterface for around 25euros).
Step 1
Place mount onto a flat clean surface. (see picture 1) 
Step 2
Place “Stinger” onto mount, note the 4 pins to hold it in place. (see picture 2) 
Step 3
Place Smartinterface key over the bezel of the “Stinger” it should fit snugly, then holding the palm of one hand onto the watch face (prevent any slipping) turn the key anti-clockwise and remove bezel. (see pics 3 and 4) 
Step 4
remove the glass (at what would be 3 oclock on a conventional watch look for a small hole to lever the glass out with a pin) then remove the O-ring and finally the printed plastic decal. (see pic 5) 
Step 5
The tricky bit?….. no not really all you need to do is be carefull as underneath the part you are about to remove is a ribbon that connects to the “Stinger Dive Interface”. With a pin carefully lift the component out of the watch casing (taking care not to scratch or damage the contacts, these are clearly visible) (see pic 6) 
Step 6
Turn over the component and look for the golden star shaped clasp that holds in the battery, remove this with a pin, (be careful its very springy and has a mind of its own) (see pic 7) 
Step 7
All that needs to be done now is to replace the battery and then follow all the steps in reverse order to re-assemble the “Stinger”. See its that easy!
If what you read here is even .01% meaningful to you, please Digg us, Stumble us, or save us to Del.icio.us using the icons following each post. Be sure to subscribe to this blog’s RSS Feed and our newsletter too, if so inclined, deposit your email address by using the form to the right. Thanks for visiting and dive safe out there, will you?
Recent Comments